The Restaurant Making America Healthy Again

Ama, an Italian restaurant with a $30,000 catalytic carbon water filtration system, is the most happening restaurant I've been to

Four blocks from the U.S. Capitol sits a restaurant that could ace a full-fledged MAHA mom’s kitchen inspection: no non-stick pans, all of which are washed with botanical cleaners; a pantry free of seed oils and preservatives; and a fridge adherent to the EWG’s Dirty Dozen and stocked with regenerative cuts from local ranchers.

I first read about Ama, an Italian restaurant in Washington’s Navy Yard neighborhood, in the New York Times earlier this summer. The intentionality behind every detail of the restaurant blew me away.

A $30,000 water filtration system using double catalytic carbon filtration that removes contaminants while retaining essential minerals? I had to experience it.

I knew I liked the place when the hostess asked me—with great sincerity—“how are you feeling tonight?” This sort of tenderheartedness does a lot of social-emotional healing in a city where most conversations are connections to be made. “You know what, I could use a hug.”

I jest. I didn’t request a hug, but I did really appreciate her welcome to my home energy.

Bri sat me and a friend at a corner table where I ordered ravioli filled with braised pasture-raised beef and borage, a floral Mediterranean herb with great health benefits.

My friend got a seafood ragu pasta. Ama sources their seafood from Seatopia, a seafood company that lab tests to ensure seafood is omega rich, mercury safe, free from detectable microplastics.

Ama also makes their own ginger ale, which was excellent. The ginger was stronger than me on leg day, which actually isn’t saying that much. But the point is: the drink slapped.

After the pasta I ordered a tiramisu because we just so happened to be there on my birthday.

You won’t find refined sugar in the restaurant (their desserts are sweetened with muscovado sugar), and believe me when I say that the most dangerous place in the world that night—a level 4 travel advisory from the State Department—was between me and that tiramisu.

Ama made such an impression that we returned the next day. We were seated at the same table. Highlights included roasted beets in balsamic with fresh Robiola cheese, sprouted walnuts, and tarragon—and the chance to meet Eden, the restaurant’s manager.

Eden answered our many questions with kindness and expertise, discussing the restaurant’s history and vision. Her longtime friend Johanna Hellrigl launched Ama to create a business “rooted in love. For your health. For the staff. For Everything.”

Eden explained the unique, apolitical nature of Ama. “Today we made food for 25-30 lawmakers across political isles. They know me. I know them. When they come in here, they’re here for the healthy, wholesome food,” she said. “Politics are paused.”

One lawmaker fills her water bottles with the restaurant’s purified water when she’s in town. I might do the same next time I’m there.

When I asked her about the rise of the MAHA movement, she gave a savvy, politically-aware answer. “The people fighting for clean ingredients and high food quality have, in my opinion, good intentions.”

Everyone from FDA head Dr. Marty Makary to Senator Cory Booker (D), to Vani Hari aka the Food Babe are regulars at Ama.

“This place is DOING THINGS RIGHT!!!” Dr. Casey Means wrote about the restaurant earlier this year.

The next day my friend left town but I didn’t fly out until later. Part of me wanted to try a new place for dinner. But the other part of me said: Vance, have you ever been to a place that’s as delicious and wholesome as Ama? Get back there now. You haven’t even tried their meatballs.

When I walked in that third night, Eden ushered me in.

“Your usual table’s taken. Is this one okay?”